Day 15: Cape Kamui to Otaru

Our Plan for the day

Our original plan was to drive from Shakotan Town of Otaru in the morning. The distance was about 435km and the drive would take about a hour to complete.

Along the way we intended to stop at Yoichi to visit Nikka Whisky Winery. After which we would drive to Otaru to take part in "Otaru Tide Festival".

Today we had to adjust the itinerary to squeeze in a return trip to Cape Kamui in the morning. For the rest of the day the original itinerary would resume.

Route for the day

We achieved all our targets!!!

Breakfast at Oyado Kasai

The second meal at Oyado Kasai was as delightful as dinner though of a smaller scale.

Breakfast at Oyado Kasai

Breakfast was served in a common breakfast room. It was a Japanese room with low tables and chairs. We were very impressed with the pretty picture made by the colourful design of the dishware and the food on the table and could not resist taking photo shots of them. The lady owner must be very used to her customers taking photo shots of the food as she quicky came over any offered to take a photo of us together with the food.

Breakfast

We ate our food leisurely trying out every item on the table some of which we did not know what they were. We could only assume that as long as they were on the table they were edible.


Cape Kamui (we are back)

The day started off without rain. Though it was slightly misty in the early morning, the mist appeared to be lifting as time went by. We started off from Shakotan Town at 9.30 am and reached Cape Kamui carpark by about 10.15am. We walked walk down the same path we had taken yesterday, moving toward the wooden gate.

From the gate  was the start of a scenic route to the tip of the cape. The distance was about 700 metres.

This cape was once forbidden to women. I tried my best to read an inscription on a wooden board near the gate, which said that Legend of Yoshitsune told of a native Ainu chief's daughter devastated over the sudden departure of a man she loved. She stood on the cape and shouted a curse that any ship carrying a woman passing the cape would sink. Then she killed herself by jumping into the sea.

I found the barring of women on the cape puzzling, if one was to believe the curse then women should be barred from ships that would sail past the cape. Well maybe the natives did not want more women on the cape to prevent more powerful curses from being made. 

The Narrow peninsula that extended out to the tip of the cape was stunning to look at. It looked like the back of a dragon. To reach the end tip of the cape, we had to walk on a long boardwalk running along the apex of the ridge, it felt like we were on a dragon's back.

Cape Kamui

Though the sky was not blue and was more of a greyish color, there was no mist or rain. The entire look of the place was so different from the day before.

The tip of the cape was further than I expected and that was a good thing since the walk would not end too soon for me. The views were fantastic no matter which way I turned my head I saw beautiful postcard sceneries.

After some down and up steps we reached the lighthouse near the tip of the cape. The lighthouse looked quite well maintained so it must be still in service.

Light house of Cape Kamui

A few more steps ahead brought us to the end point of the boardwalk which broadened out into an observation deck. From the deck we could see a few pieces of rocks that seemed to be part of the cape long time ago but were now submerged.

Standing at the end of the cape with the wind wiping against our faces we felt so happy to have return to this cape. Our itinerary was flexible because this was a DIY tour and we were not force to move forward once we passed a location.

Near or Far?

After we walked back to the gate of the Cape Kamui we did not went back to the car park directly. We saw a path that led up a slope to the right of the cape and we went up to explore. From a high point on the right of the cape we got another beautiful view of the "Dragon" body of the cape.

Cape Kamui

Yoichi - Nikka Whisky Winery

We drove from Cape of Kamui to Yoichi, the distance was about 48km and we took about an hour to reach Yoichi. We drove passed Nikka Whisky Winery main gate and could not see an entrance for car.

Main Gate of Nikka Whisky (Mapcode 164 665 163)

We looped one round and still could not find a car entrance to the Winery so we parked our car in a paid carpark just opposite the main gate. The parking charges was ¥100 an hour.

Nikka Whisky is one of Japan's top whisky makers. Its distillery in Yoichi was built in 1934 on a site chosen for its clear water, brisk air and rich peat. Taketsuru (founder of Nikka Whisky) believed that the conditions in Yoichi best resembled those found in Scotland, where he studied the whisky making techniques, and would be perfect for recreating Scotch Whisky. The traditional distillation process that he brought over from Scotland has remained relatively the same till today. Nikka whiskies are recognized as among the world's best single malt whiskies and have won many awards. 

As we strolled through the large compound we could see many of its original stone buildings still standing. Each building housed distillery equipment that was used in different steps of the distillery process. Self guided video cum audio equipment were placed at convenient locations for use. It took us one hour to walk through the entire whisky making process from start to end.

Buildings in the compound of Nikka Whisky Winery

Each building housed distillery equipment that was used in different steps of the distillery process. Self guilded video cum audio equipments were placed at convenient locations for use. It took us one hour to walk through the entire whisky making process from start to end.

Distillery and Storage 

Near the end of the walk, just as we were approaching the building that sold souvenirs we came upon a huge carpark. This carpark was in the compound of Nikka Whisky and it was free of charge! This free carpark was accessed from another Nikka Whisky entrance which was opened to cars and buses.

Free Carpark (coordinates: 43.184704, 140.789717) 

Otaru

From Nikka Whisky to Otaru was only a 20 km drive. We drove straight to our hotel in Otaru and checked in. The time was about 4pm when we got out of our hotel in search for the Otaru Tide Festival celebration ground. Otaru was a small harbour city northwest of Sapporo. From the early days of Hokkaido colonization in late 1800s, Otaru served as a major trade and fishing port.  

Otaru Tide Festival

Otaru Tide Festival was an annual festival and 2015 was its 49th year of celebration.This 3-day festival gave thanks to the sea and is one of the most popular sea festivals in northern Japan. More than 10,000 participants take to the streets to dance and numerous paper lanterns decorate the whole city. At Otaru Wharf, some 4,000 paper lanterns were set adrift onto the sea and many boats and ships parade around the bay amongst them. Other attractions include parade of mikoshi portable shrines and fireworks.

We were not too sure as to where would be the centre of activities for the festival. So we decided to walk toward Otaru canal which was the most famous attraction of Otaru city.

Otaru Town Canal

Otaru Canal was at the central part of the city's busy port in the first half of the 20th century. Goods were transferred from large vessels onto smaller ships that sailed up the canal to off load these goods to the warehouses along the canal.

The canal went out of use when modern dock facilities were built to handle large vessels. In 1980 part of the canal was beautifully restored and the warehouses were transformed into museum, shops and restaurants. 

From our hotel to Otaru canal was only 500 metres and on foot it took us less than 10 minutes to reach. The canal with its refurbished warehouses looked lovely, the cobbled walkway gave the place a nostalgic atmosphere. As we strolled along the canal we saw several roadside artists displaying their works to tourists.

Otaru Canal

The scenic stretch of the canal was only 300 metre long, it started from one bridge and ended on another bridge. At the second bridge we turned and walked toward the dock, that was where we found the centre (big carpark) of the Otaru Tide festival Celebration.

Festival square at a big carpark by the port 

Hundred of lanterns were already lighted and the place were crowded with many people. We walked and saw a huge white notice board detailing the events for the three days. There would be fireworks tonite (the first night) and again on the last night. Tomorrow in the afternoon they would be a parade.

Firework at the Port

We walked around the port in search of a good place to see the firework. We found a long stretch of road just by the side of the water (at the dock) where many locals had laid their floor mats. We deduced that this must be the best place to view the fireworks. It was only 6pm and the firework would not start till 8pm.

We looked around for a good spot near the dock edge, and managed to squeeze ourselves onto a small space between two floor mats. Yat Thong stayed put to stake our claim of that tiny space as for me, I went off in search of dinner.

Food could easily be found as a section of the port was setup as a huge food bazaar. There were many stalls and they sold all types of food and drinks. I was spoiled for choices.

I packed our food and brought it back to Yat Thong and we had a picnic dinner just by the dock.

The fireworks started on time and lasted about 20 minutes. Every burst was greeted with loud cheery admiration from the crowd. We enjoyed ourselves very much.

Fireworks on the first night of the Tide festival

After the fireworks ended we decided to call it a day and began our walk back to our hotel. On the way we past Otaru canal again and was mesmerised by its view at night. The canal was bathed in dark golden light, the entire atmosphere was very romantic. There were many people walking along the canal, locals and tourists. I was glad to visit Otaru during its festival because seeing its locals dressed up in yukata (summer kimono) strolling along the canal added a great deal of cultural favours into our experience.

Otaru Port at Night 

Our Accommodation for the Night (2 Nights)

I had booked a double room at Authent Hotel Otaru at cost of ¥16200 (about 180 SGD) a night for two nights. The room came with ensuite bathroom with NO meals. Parking was at ¥1000 a night, which was the most expensive hotel parking of our entire trip.

I picked this hotel because it was within walking distance to Otaru canal, had parking facilities and its charges was comparatively cheaper than the other hotels in the vicinity. Its proximity to the canal and port would made it most convenient for us to get back late at night after our visit to the Tide festival.

I had also checked out the other Hotels just by the Otaru Canal and found their room charges one and a half or twice as much of those at Authent Hotel Otaru.

The room size was just comfortable for two. The ensuite bathroom size was good too, I could move easily without bumping into the walls or door. Though the price was steeper than other places in Hokkaido, it felt good with the extra space especially when we had to be in Otaru for two days and more time would be spent in the room.

One thing I found lacking was the limited number of charging points. There were only two! Good thing was the Wifi signal was strong in the room.

This booking was reserved under a popular hotel website about three months before departure, at that time of reservation the rates given by the website was the best compared to other websites. There after whenever I checked again my room rate was still the best and nearer to the date of check-in most hotels were fully booked.

I thought my room rate was good until we checked out. The hotel receptionist told me that they would not collect payment from me as the hotel website would charge the fee to my credit card. I was fine with it, I requested the receptionist to give me the total bill for my own recording purposes. Surprise, surprise, the bill stated that the room rate for each of was my two nights was ¥12800. Which added up to a total of ¥25600 ( $284sgd). I was charge about ¥6,800 more. Even though the rate was different there was nothing we could do. A lesson learnt...

Day 14: Cape Kamui & Shakotan Coast

Our plan for the day

Our plan was to drive from Niseko to Shakotan Peninsula which was about 160km apart. We intended to visit two of its more famous sights which were Cape Kamui and Shimanui Coast. After that we would drive down to Shakotan Town where we would spend a night.

We achieved our targets, unfortunately Cape Kamui was shrouded in mist, visibility was zero.

Route for the day

Bye Bye to Mt Annupuri

When we woke up in the morning, we were disappointed to see that everywhere around us was still misty. We had to abandon our plan to go up Mt Annupuri because like the day before the visibility would be zero.

A surreal sight

Our next destination was Cape Kamui which was about 78km away. As we drove toward our destination we were rather concerned about the poor weather. We were hoping that soon the mist would lift, the sky would clear and the sun would come out.

Midway into our journey, the mist condition worsen, instead of lifting it was settling down onto the ground. It was at a location just after rounding the corner passing Ryujin Cape that we were greeted with a surreal sight of nature.

Near to Ryujin Cape - a coincidental scenic sight

Right in front of we saw a village in the cloud or was it a village by the sea. The village was at the meeting point of the cloud and the sea. The scene in front of us was very mystical very unreal, we parked our car by the roadside and came out to take many photo shots of it.

A sight that was beautiful beyond words

Though from where we were stood we were very far from the village and yet we could hear the distinct sound of a boat chugging in the water. Then we saw a fishing boat passing the white light house floating on a "sea of cloud".

Cape Kamui (神威岬)

By about 11 am we reached the carpark of Cape Kamui unforturnatately the mist had gotten denser and had settled down lower on the ground.

Cape Kamui was one the my most anticipated sightseeing locations. I had seen many beautiful photographs of Cape Kamui, and its beautiful scenery had drawn me into placing Cape Kamui as my "must visit" location in Hokkaido.

Map of Cape Kamui

I was very reluctant to leave Cape Kamui without walking to the end of the cape and without seeing the "dragon body" of the cape. We decided to wait for the mist to lighten up so we walked into a restaurant just in front of the carpark to wait.

Cape Kamui (mapcode: 932 583 006)

After about an hour of waiting (surfing the internet, catching up with emails and messages) we concluded that the misty condition was going to remain the same throughout the day. We had no choice but to start our walk toward the end of the cape. We did not get far, at the wooden doorway to the cape the visibility was down to almost zero. There was where we decided to turn back. We would reorganise our tomorrow itinerary and return to Cape Kamui again. 

Shimanui Beach (島武意海岸) 

At Cape Kamui carpark we set the car GPS system to route us to Shimanui coast which was about 15 km away. With the misty condition persisting through the day we did not hold much hope that we could see the famous "Shakotan Blue".

After we parked our car we walked toward the direction of the Shimanui coast and came to a tunnel. There was a big signboard with a huge picture of the Shimanui coast just in front of the tunnel that indicated to us that we had to enter the tunnel to get to the coast.

Tunnel to Shimanui Coast

From my research Shimanui coast is located on the edge of of Shakotan Peninsula. It has a amazing view and is one of Japan best coasts. The color of the sea is crystal clear and blue and is called "Shakotan Blue". Though the mist had lifted the sky was still very gloomy and without a clear blue sky we were not too hopeful of seeing a clear blue sea. 

The tunnel was dark and slightly damp but luckily it was not too long. At the end of the tunnel was an observation deck overlooking the Shamanui coast. The "Shakotan Blue" was not at its best, though we did see some blueness in the sea. The water was very clear. There was a long flight of zigzap steps lead down to the beach. We took about 10 minutes to walk just halfway down the stairs and decided not to go any further. We thought that the view looked much prettier at this high point so there was no need to go down to the beach, besides we could see the mist setting down again.

Shimanui Coast (Mapcode 932 747 229)

Shakoton Town

Most people would have gone straight to Otaru after visiting Cape Kamui and Shimamui Coast. After all Otaru is a big city with many hotels and restaurants. In our case our plan was to stay overnight in one of the towns along the coast of Shakotan Peninsula. We had read so much about the seafood delicacies (especially sea urchin) that were caught in summer and served fresh by the fishermen of Shakotan Peninsula, such that we decided we must stay in a hotel on coast that would serve dinner and breakfast.

I chose Shakotan town to stay for a night because I came across many websites giving good reviews on the seafood meals served by Oyado Kasai which was located in this town. So we booked a room with Oyado Kasai. We checked in to the hotel at around 3 pm. There were not much to do in the hotel so we walked out to explore the port nearby.

Shakotan Port

Shakotan was a very small town and the port was only two streets away from our hotel. There were several fishing boats anchored at the dock and we saw fishing nets hung out to dry. The air had a salty and fishy smell and there were many seagulls circulating around the port.

The port was very quiet and we did not see anybody until we came across a housed in a "container" liked structure. Behind the restaurant we saw a few people cooking over a pot and eating seafood.

Looking at them I was already anticipating my dinner this evening at Oyado Kasai. Since there was not much to see at the port we turned back to our hotel to wait for our dinner.

Restaurant at Shakotan Port 

Our Dinner

When we checked in to the hotel earlier in the day, the chef who was the male owner of the hotel asked for our dinner preference. Western or Japanese? We told him definitely Japanese and we would eat all types seafood.

Near to dinner time, we were in our room when the lady owner of the hotel came by and led us to a private room where she had already set up a low table and two low Japanese chairs. The dishes were laid so prettily on the table and she invited us to sit down to start our meals.

"Pretty" dinner 

On the table was a white paper listing down the full course of our dinner. It was of not much help as I could only make out a few words so it was as good and not knowing. 

I had never eaten sea urchin before, though I had read alot about it being a delicacies and a must try item in Hokkaido. It tasted slightly salty, soft, not as rich (fishy) as I expected. The fresh sashimi, cuttlefish, salmon roe and prawn tasted very delicious and sweet .

Dinner at Oyada Kasai

We thought that the food that was laid on the table was the complete set of our dinner, but surprising as we ate the lady owner brought in more food. She brought in cooked food that was freshly prepared from the chef kitchen. There was grilled abalone, bamboo cooked fish and chawanmushi. The final item was a super sweet honey dew for desert.

Our Accommodation for the Night

Normally I would not pick "Oyada Kasai" as our accommodation as it did not provide ensuite bathroom in any of its rooms. It has common bathrooms (gender based) with no privacy for individuals. I was definitely not comfortable with the bathing arrangement. 

Unfortunately hotels with meals along the Shakotan coast were outrageously expensive especially those that provide ensuite bathrooms. So I had to discard by room requirement and focus on the meals aspect, and narrowed my search to Oyada Kasai. The room costed ‎¥24200 ($275 SGD) and came with dinner and breakfast.

Our Japanese style room

My room had an attached outer small room. It was a windowless room where we exchange our house slippers with room slippers and vice versa when entering or exiting the inner sleeping room. In that room there was a heavy stench of salty seaweed that persisted for the whole day. The smell was not detected in the inner sleeping room so it definitely did not come from the sea through the opened windows. I believed that the owner must have stored some food stuff in the outer small room and removed it only when the room was let out. There was no wifi in the room as the room was too far from the router. 

Common Bathroom

This hotel is a wooden house so I could feel the wooden floor shook when people walked along the corridor. Bathroom were definitely shared. I went to the bathroom at about 10pm and found it empty. I took a super quick shower and just after I put on my clothes in the adjoining room a lady came in and started stripping. I left quickly feeling thankful that we were not bathmates!!!!