Showing posts with label Sami. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sami. Show all posts

Friday, October 17, 2014

Day 14: Sami to Corfu


Plan for the day

Based on our original plan we should have been in Levkas Town or Preveza City this morning where we would start our drive toward Igoumenitsa port. At the port we would board a car ferry that would bring us to Corfu, another Ionian Island, by around 1pm. There after we would spend the rest of the day and night in Corfu.

Original Planned route versus Revised route
Due to the cancellation of ferry route between Fiskardo and Vasiliki without notice, we were forced to stay another night in Kefalonia so were unable to travel up to Levkas Town or Preveza City last evening. 

To catch up for the lost time, our revised plan for the day was to start at Sami Port at the beginning of the day and to reach Corfu before the end of the day. The first part of the journey would be a ferry trip between Sami and Vassiliki, then a 152 km of drive to Igoumentisa Port and lastly a ferry trip to Corfu. We hoped to be in Corfu by the evening.


Breakfast at Sami Port

We went back to the same bakery shop where we had our breakfast the day before. The owner told us that the locals' favourite was homemake spinach pie. As we did not manage to eat spinach pie during the previous visit, we wanted to try it during this visit. Unfortunately we were too early as the pies had yet to be delivered to the bakery. We ordered and ate other pastries but left our tummy half full so as to have space for the soon to be delivered spinach pies.

Yes! We finally got to eat the spinach pies. My friends liked it very much as for me and my hubby we found it was just okay, not fantastic and a bit on the bland side.

Sami Port
The car ferry came punctually at 10.00 am. After the car was parked and secured in the ferry, we all went up to the upper passenger deck. This was already our third car ferry trip so we were pretty familiar with the ferry layout and what we should do to pass time. We pulled out a big bag of potato chips and enjoyed them over cups of cafe latte that we bought from the ferry cafeteria. There was usually at least one cafeteria in the ferry that served a limited variety of tidbits and drinks. The cost of a latte was €3 a reasonable price but quality wise not very good. 

Our final destination for the day was Corfu another Greek island but there was no ferry route between Sami and Corfu. So the next best option was to sail to Lefkada. Lefkada is the fourth largest Greek island after Kefalonia, Zaknythos and Corfu. The island was separated from the mainland by a narrow canal of about 50 meters wide and a bridge connects Lefkada and the mainland. 

The ferry trip was about one an a half hour so by the time we reached Vasiliki, a port at the southern tip of Lefkada it was about 11.30 am. It took about 1 hour to drive from the south of Lefkada to Levkas town which was at the north end of Lefkada. There were probably many nice places in Lefkada but we did not make any stop till we were at Levkas town where we stopped for lunch.


Lunch at Levkas Town

Levkas Town is the capital of Lefkada Island, it was situated on the north east coast, where the island was joined to the mainland by a causeway and a 50 meter swing bridge.

Yupo Yupo (coordinates: 38.832663, 20.710029)
We drove past the marina looking for a place to stop for lunch. There were many restaurants along the main road that was next to the harbour promenade.

We stopped at Yupo Yupo a small shop with a signboard stating "Best Pita Gryos in Town". We did not know which restaurant was good so any pick would be as good a pick. "Best Pita Gryos" sounded good enough for us and we were too hungry to be picky.

We did not ate our lunch in the shop but sat at its outdoor tables that were placed on the promenade directly opposite the shop. From our table we had a great view of the marina and the boats and yachts parked by the dock. It was a pleasant day full of sunshine. 

The food was great, in one plate there were everything, pita, meat, potato chips, salad. The grilled meat was very tasty and I would love to have more. Regretfully I was sharing the meal with my hubby as a light meal was kinder on our stomachs for a long drive ahead.

Lunch at Yupo Yupo
After the meal we were back in our car, heading out of Levkas town. Immediately after the town, the road led us onto a causeway with water on both sides. We drove across the 50 metre floating swing bridge that connected Levkas to the mainland. After the bridge was another long causeway. Shortly into the causeway we came upon a group of flamingos feeding in the water. Apparently this bay is the feeding ground of a huge flock of flamingos in winter. 


Flamingo feeding ground in Winter (Co-ordinates 38.844852, 20.728465)



On the ferry to Corfu

Finally after driving for about two hours we reached Igoumenitsa Port. We boarded the 5.30 pm car ferry and was on our way to Kerkyra Port in Corfu. To me its seemed that our sightseeing day had just begun. For the whole day since the morning we were just moving from one place to the next, getting closer to Corfu. We only stop once and that was for lunch, the journey was long and boring as we could not afford to detour for any sightseeing. We needed to be in Corfu this evening as I had already booked two rooms in a Hotel on Corfu months ahead. No show at the hotel meant total forfeiture of one night of room charges for both rooms.

The ferry trip to Kerkyra Port was one and a half hour and coincidentally by the time the ferry was approaching Kerkyra the sun was setting. The view at the upper deck of the ferry was breathtaking. The sea and the sky were beautifully golden absolutely stunning.

Sunset over the Old Fortress of Corfu


Corfu

Once our ferry docked at Kerkyra we drove into the old town. Our first destination was Liston. Liston was a large colonnade building. It was built in 1807 by the French and its architecture was from Napoleonic period.

Old Fortress
Corfu, was the second largest of the Ionian island. Unlike the rest of Greece, it never fell under Ottoman oppression. It was ruled by the Venetians, the French and the British in succession over the the centuries and they greatly influenced the architectural style of Corfu town.

It was not easy to find a free parking space in the old town as the place was very very crowded with people and vehicles. It could be crowded because it was a Friday evening and everybody was out to party. By the time we parked and made our way to Liston, it was just nice that the sun had set and the sky was turning dark blue forming a beautiful backdrop for Liston.

Liston of Corfu (Co-ordinates: 39.624157, 19.923886)
A wide esplanade ran down the entire length of the Liston, on the other side of the esplanade were row of trees packed with tables, chairs and diners below these trees. Liston itself also housed many cafes and restaurants and every table was packed with diners. It was a good thing that the esplanade walkway was not cluttered at all which allowed us to see the beautiful vaulted galleries, archways and hanging lanterns of the Liston with no obstruction.

Liston of Corfu


Going up to the New Fortress in the Evening

I had seen many photographs of the night scene of Corfu old town with the old fortress in the background. These photographs were taken from the high ground of the new fortress. The night scene would be very beautiful and I couldn't wait to see it too. For that we had to get into the ground of the new fortress ground. We walked along the lane that led uphill to the new fortress, on the way we checked with a passerby about the new fortress and she told us that a Cafe cum Pub was operating in the ground of the new fortress. Unfortunately the path to entrance of the new fortress was barricaded by a locked big iron gate. There was a sign board indicating that the Cafe cum Pub would start business again at 12 midnight. I was very disappointed and we turned back and left.

Corfu old town was very vibrant and full of lives at night. Shops, cafe, restaurants and pubs were everywhere and the place was packed with people and the mood was very festive. Corfu was definitely the most crowded town that we had experienced since the start of our tour in Greece.

Cobbled streets in the Old town
It was a good thing that some of the streets were closed to traffic making it safer to walk on the roads without worrying about cars. The old town was a labyrinth of streets and alleys, many of these side alleys looked very quaint and interesting but we did not explore them because it was late and those alleys looked too quiet. We would come back to explore them the next day, as for this evening we would stay on the more crowded streets and looked for place for a nice dinner.

We came to a restaurant called Vios which looked rather interesting. It had pretty modern decoration. There was no empty table inside Vios so we had to sit at its outdoor area. Though the outdoor area was noisy it was also more entertaining as we got a good view of the action on the streets.

Dinner at Vios in the Old Town
My husband and I ordered a pork dish and a salad to share between two of us. Surprisingly the food tasted very good. They were not typical traditional greek food, more like a modern fusion of Greek food. Very delicious and satisfying.


Checking in Aquis Mon Repos Palace Hotel

I had booked two twin rooms at Aquis Mon Repos Palace Hotel two months ahead of our travel. The room charges were €68 per room which included buffet breakfast. The room rates were twice the amount we had paid for other accommodations.

Aquis Mon Repos Palace Hotel
I had selected this hotel because it was close to the old town but not in the old town as I preferred to stay away from the clutter old town. This hotel was by the sea and on checking google map at street level I was comfortable with its vicinity.

On arriving at the hotel I found it better than my expectation. The rooms were also luxurious, comfortable and cosy. Definitely well worth the higher amount we had paid.

Our rooms


Night Scenery

It was around 10.00 pm when we finally settled into our room. I was unwilling to call it a day so my husband and I took a late night walk outside of hotel. We walked down the road toward the beach which was just a short distance away. There were two or three restaurants along the beach front still open for business. We walked along the tiled pavement just beside the road that ran along the coastline of the bay. It was quiet and there were nobody but us, the whole place was very well lighted and it felt very safe.

We were at one end of the bay and the Old Fortress was at the other end on a high rock. It was lighted and looked awesome. Rather than looking at the fortress from afar we decided we might as well take the car out for a spin near the Old Fortress.

Corfu Old Fortress
The Old Fortress was near the the old town, so our drive took us back to the old town again back to the esplanade that ran between the old town and the old fortress. This round we were at the other end of the esplanade and we saw a quiet Liston from the other end.

Liston late at Night
It was late and the crowd that we saw earlier in the evening was gone. With the crowd gone it was easier to appreciate the buildings in the old town. We spotted several buildings that we did not notice earlier.

We were walking along the esplanade when the beautifully lighted St Spyridonas Church caught our attention, it was situated deep in a side alley and we would not have noticed it if not for its red dome roof and golden clock face bell tower.

St. Spyridonas Church
The next majestic building we saw at the esplanade was the Royal Palace also called the Palace of Saints Michael and George. This palace was built between 1814 -24 when Corfu was under the British rule. The palace complex consisted of a main building and two symmetrically placed wings from both sides of it. In front of the palace was the brass statue of Lord Frederick-Adam, a well known English Commissioner who contributed greatly to the development of Corfu. Today the palace was used as an Museum. 

Royal Palace of Corfu (St Michele & St Giorgio Palace)
I was glad that we made this late night exploration as we saw several beautiful historical monuments that we had missed out earlier because of the crowd. 

It was already past midnight and I did wonder if we should go up to the New Fortress to view Corfu City from the top. Unfortunately the idea of walking up the dark lane to the New Fortress and into a midnight Pub did not seem appealing so we dropped the idea and went back to our hotel.



Thursday, October 16, 2014

Day 13: Kefalonia, Melissani Cave, Fiskardo


Plan for the day

Our driving route would be from 

  1. Poros to Sami to see the Melissani Cave  
  2. Sami to Fiskardo for buy ferry tickets for the evening trip
  3. Fiskardo to Mytros Beach for the most popular beach in Greece
  4. Mytros Beach to Fiskardo for a ferry trip to the next island
driving route on Kefalonia

We intended to spend the whole day until 5 pm on Kefalonia, during this time frame we had a few destinations to explore. There was only one "must visit" attraction and that would be the Melissani Cave, the "most beautiful blue cave" in Greece or maybe in the world.

We planned to board the ferry with our car and travel from Fiskardo port to Vasiliki, a southern port on the next island. The plan was to leave Vasiliki port by 6.30pm and drive for about one to one and a half hour northward. Our accomodation for the night would be in either Levkas Town on Lefkada island or Preveza City on the mainland.

ferry route and driving route from Vasiliki to Preveza

We were off target by a great deal!

By the end of the day we had visited Melissani Cave, Sami and Fiskardo town. Fiskardo was a pleasant surprise. As for Myrtos Beach the visit was cancelled at the last moment. 

The ferry trip to Vasiliki went up in smoke and we ended up staying the night at Sami Port of Kefalonia some 100 km behind our planned end point of the day. 

From the experience over the last two days, I could definitely confirmed that Greek Ferry Lines were not reliable during low tourists season especially on less popular ferry routes. I had gotten the dates and schedules of the trips from the Ferry lines official website which were not updated to reflect cancellation.


Sami town

We checked out of our hotel, Dioni Apartment in Poros at about 9 am and it was when making our payment to the "workman" that we found out he was the owner of the hotel. October to the end of the year was a lull period for the hotel and it was a good time to carry out alternation, that was why the ground level of the hotel was in the midst of renovation.

We drove toward Poros in search of a place for breakfast. It was only 1 km from our hotel but when we reached Poros port we did not spot a cafe that was inviting enough to make us stop for breakfast so we continued to drive forward to the next town, Sami.

Sami Town was another port of Kefalonia island and it was rather quiet in mid October. It had a couple of streets and we drove a few rounds circulating the place looking for a good breakfast place. We parked the car by the roadside and came down for a walk, we walked past the town church, a bakery, a super market before we stopped at a second bakery.

Yummy!!
The breads on the shelves looked so inviting and smell so aromatic that we went in to have our breakfast. 

The owner was a very friendly middle age woman and she had an equally friendly big black dog. 

We ordered bread, pies, pastries and cafe lattes and ate our breakfast at a small table that was placed just at side door of the store with the black dog practically lying at our feet. 

Aptonoieio Bakery (Co-ordinates:38.252310, 20.648753)
The store was located at a huge intersection of five roads with the port just right in front. So sitting at our table we had a great time observing the town and the port. 

It was great that we had internet access 24/7 so while eating we got to read news, message with our families and update our social network. It was wonderful how modern technology had made travelling afar closer to the love ones at home. 


Melissani Cave

Melissani Cave (co-ordinates:38.257006, 20.623510) was about 3 km from Sami Port so in less than 10 minutes we reached the car park outside the cave.

Route from Sami Port to Melissani Cave
Beside the car park was a cafe and a souvenir store. We looked around to see how we could go uphill and see the Melissani Lake from the opening of the caved in roof. There was a hill but it was fenced off. The fencing stretched a long way and we could not see any opening at all. It looked like there was no way up the hill. The only entrance to the cave was just next to the cafe, it led into a tunnel that went underground into the cave.

Tunnel to Melissani Cave
The entrance fee was €8 per person and it included a short boat ride on the lake. Though tunnel sloped downward, it was rather easy to walk as it was well lighted, its floor was "carpeted" and it had hand railings on both sides. The tunnel opened into a cave lake. We stepped out of the tunnel into the cave onto a small platform built just above the water level. Four of us went into a boat and the boatman rowed the boat toward the middle of the lake. The cave had a huge opening in its roof.

Tourist Boats in Melissani Cave
It was already 12 noon and the sun rays shone strongly through the opening right into the water. The water looked cool and blue and I could see all the way down to the base of the lake. It was very quiet, very surreal and very beautiful.

Beautiful Blue Cave
Melissani Cave or Melissani Lake as it was sometimes called was a lake inside a cave that had trees and forests surrounding it. The cave had two chambers with an island in the center. The roof of one of the chambers caved in centuries ago.

The boatman rowed the boat to just directly under the opening of the caved in roof. Looking up we could see that the opening were surrounded by green trees, there were creepers hanging down into the cave from the edge of the opening. On top of the cave was the forest.

Caved-in roof of the 1st chamber
We asked the boatman how we could get to the top of the cave. He told us that outside the cave there were paths that led uphill, unfortunately all these paths were now barricaded and nobody was allowed to go up anymore. Viewing from the top was disallowed because of past incidence when daredevil tourists leaped through the opening into the cave lake. After going one round of the lake the boatman rowed the boat into a second chamber. Between the two chambers there was a small piece of land and a narrow water path.

Waterway connecting the two chambers
The further we entered into the second chamber the darker it got. This second chamber was smaller and not as interesting. So if there was no caved in of the roof in the first chamber it would be as dark and as uninteresting as the second chamber. This caved in transformed this Melissani cave into a famous tourist attraction. 

On the way back to the first chamber the boatman sang us a local song, and his voice resonated loudly inside the chamber. His voice must have frightened some birds or bats because I heard a flutter of wings and saw some small creatures flying into the air as we approached that tiny piece of land separately the two chambers. 

The boatman was a friendly man and insisted on helping us to take plenty of group photos. In just about 15 minutes our boat ride was over and the boat moved toward the platform. I tried my luck and requested the boatman to row another loop around the first chamber but lady luck was not with me.

Boat ride in Melisanni Lake/Cave
The only way to enjoyed Melissani Lake was on a boat, because beside the small platform where the boats were berthed there was not much space to stand. There was no walking path in the cave or around the edge of the lake. Regretfully, for  €8 per person we were allowed only one trip on the boat and when done we were left on the small platform. There was no place to linger, rest, sit, relax and to enjoy this uniquely beautiful blue cave but to walk back in the tunnel and leave.


Fiskardo

We drove about 38 km for about an hour from Melissani Cave to Fiskardo which was a port at the northern tip of Kefalonia and reached there by about 2 pm in the afternoon. We were at the port to get ferry tickets for four of us and our car to move on to the next Ioanian island, Lefkada. The plan was to board the 5.15 pm car ferry that would sail from Fiskardo to Vassiliki, a southern port of Lefkada.

Unfortunately for the second time in two days we were let down by another Greek Ferry Company. The shop, Nautilus Travel, that sold ferry tickets was closed and when I asked the neighbouring shop how could I get tickets on the car ferry to go from Fiskardo to Vassiliki, I was told that the ferry season had ended no more trips till next year. 

This was very upsetting as on the West Ferry website (www.westferry.gr) the ferry would only stop running in November and December and there were still two more weeks to go before November started. So again I had to activate Plan B which was to sail from Sami to Vassiliki.

two ferry routes to the next Lefkada
Apparently ferry cancellation especially by small ferry lines was a common occurrence during off peak tourist season. The advantages of touring Greece in mid October was that being on the fringe of peak tourist season it was much less crowded, prices were lower and weather was still not too cold. The disadvantages were some shops, hotels and shipping routes were closed and you might encounter ferry trip cancellation without notice. 

Even when I stood outside the closed Nautilus Travel shop unable to purchase our ferry tickets, the West Ferry website (West Ferry Maritime Company F/B Captain Aritidis) still stated that its car ferry would run till end of October! Luckily this was just a small hiccup and could be easily rectified. We would head back to Sami in the late afternoon but in the meantime we continued with our sightseeing. 

Fiskardo was different from our expectation. We thought that it was just a basic port like Agio Nikolaos in Zakynthos with nothing much to see. Fiskardo turned out to be a good surprise, it was a very scenic port town with an exceptionally beautiful harbour view.

Fiskardo Harbour
This harbour was very different from all the other harbours that we had seen so far, it looked like a harbour where the "rich and famous" would sail in on their yachts. We chose a nice outdoor cafe with a good view and sat down for lunch. Lunch was delicious and the prices was reasonable.

Lunch with a view
After lunch we took a walk around the harbour. The buildings were mainly cafes, souvenir shops, bakeries, boat rental shops, travel shops, etc all catering to tourists. We passed many yachts and occasionally saw people living (reading, eating, sleeping) in the yachts. Sailing from island to island seemed to be a good form of touring Greece too.

Fiskardo port
Boats, Yachts everywhere

Myrtos Beach

Myrtos Beach was frequently voted as the most popular beach in Greece so it was on our destination list in Kefalonia. From my research we could view the beach from the top just like Shipwreck Cove in Zakynthos but besides that we could also drive down to the beach as there was a road that led down to the beach. I used google map on my handphone to plot the route to Myrtos beach. What I could not understand was it kept plotting a long round about route to Myrtos beach. But from my map I could see a shorter and direct road so we decided to ignore google map recommended route and took the shorter and direct road.

Long and short routes to Myrtos Beach
The entire journey was about 25 km and it was a long boring and sleepy drive. There was not much nice scenery to be seen on the road and we were all falling asleep because of our heavy lunch. We couldn't wait to reach our destination and get out to stretch our legs. When we were just a mere 5 km from Myrtos beach our drive came to an abrupt end. There was a "No entry" sign in the middle of the road and more indication of road construction ahead. OMG, now I knew why google map kept plotting the long round about route. We were so disappointed and the idea of turning back to make the big loop to Myrtos Beach was just too difficult to accept. So we voted to skip Myrtos Beach totally and return to Sami port. It was a decision that I later regretted, we should have made a loop even though it would take 45 minutes more. Now I would never know why Myrtos Beach was frequently voted as the most popular beach in Greece! 

On hindsight I vowed that I should never make hasty decision when I was sleepy and too full from heavy lunch. 


Ferry tickets from Sami to Vasiliki

We were back to Sami at about 5pm and walked into one of the ferry lines shop to buy our tickets. We were told that there was only one ferry trip a day to Vasiliki and the next ride would be at 10 am the next day. We bought our tickets and the next thing would be to find an accommodation for the night on Kelafonia instead of Lekfada.


Dimitris Studios

We found Dimitris Studios online and immediate made the booking online for two twin rooms. We chose Dimitris Studios because it was near Sami Port, price wise pretty good at €36 per room with ensuite toilet and no breakfast. Shortly I got a call from a London office to confirm my time of arrival.

Dimitris Studios
From the port we needed only drove about 2.5km to Dimitris Studios. We found the place but it looked closed. For a while we thought we got the wrong Dimitris Studio. I called the local phone number of the hotel stated in the confirmation email and a man told me to wait and he would be arriving soon to meet us.

Dimitris, the owner came on a motorbike and opened the place for us. He brought us up to inspect two rooms on the second level, these rooms faced the sea. The rooms were clean, nice and comfortable. We did our usual checks to make sure that the attached toilets had hot water and once we confirmed that we were happy with the rooms, Dimitris brought us downstairs to pick up our supply of towels and toiletries from his storage cupboard. 

Dimitris could hardly speak any English but we still got to understood each other with a few English words and lots of gesturing. I would describe Dimitris as a friendly host, a short and chubby man in his late sixties. 


Dinner at Contessina 

We drove back into Sami port in search for a restaurant for dinner. Dimitris had strongly recommended Contessina Restaurant, a place owned by his good friend that he said we must go. We parked our car and walked along the promenade moving from one restaurant to another reading the foods offering on their menu displayed outside the restaurants.

Contessina in Sami, Kefalonia
We did not even had a chance to decide which restaurant to go in when we saw Dimitris walking toward us in the opposite direction. He came to usher us into Contessina restaurant. So we ended up eating pizza at Contessina restaurant. We were not sure if Dimitris was being a considerate host helping us or a great friend helping the restaurant owner to bring in customers. To us it did not matter as there was only a 50% chance that the restaurant we picked may be nicer than Contessina.